Thursday, October 5, 2017

The Human Cameleon - Bodypainting Camo as a Muse for Design


And NOW for something completely different. 

I love waking up to an idea and researching things as muses for design. Research is fun, at least to me, when it involves the visual and art and design. 

Who knows where it may lead? In this case, I was thinking of Suburban Camouflage as an alternative to the military or hunter variety. The art is amazing, and there are bodypainting competitions as it turns out. Hope you enjoy the photo essay. Braxton















 








Tuesday, September 26, 2017

Why we love Colonial Williamsburg.

Definitely check out Pierce's Pitt Barbecue.  It's the best I've ever had and I know a few things about good bbq.
Braxton and I had the pleasure of living in Williamsburg Virginia for the first year of our marriage while he was finishing his studies at the College of William and Mary.  Years later, our youngest went to W&M, and we rediscovered our love for it and have been regulars ever since.  I'm going to keep this post photo heavy, but if you have any questions about traveling to W'burg.....where to stay, where to eat, what to do...I'm here for ya!  

Get off the beaten path.  The last time we were there we went the length of Duke of Gloucester Street by walking only through the gardens.  Every garden is fenced with a gate to the next garden so you can avoid the tourists on DOG street and enjoy the beautifully tended landscapes.


Williamsburg is considered a "living museum" which means there are costumed actors who drive the carriages, work in the shops and taverns, or just stroll down the street ready to answer any questions.  Definitely photo ops galore.

The cemetery at Bruton Parish Church.

Everywhere you look there are charmingly tiny houses with the prettiest gardens.  If anyone is interested in the small house movement (B and I sure are) there is so much inspiration here.

Sheep, horses, and oxen, oh my!

This room, at the Williamsburg Inn, was apparently not part of the recent renovation.  Whew.


So much brick here!

The lovely gates which lead from one garden to the next.


The Christopher Wren building on the campus of William and Mary.  There is some question as to weather or not Sir Wren actually designed this beautiful building but it's definitely a favorite of mine.

A gorgeous colonial staircase in the Wren building.  I'm not certain every tourist knows that this building is open to the public.  They still have classes here but it's perfectly acceptable to quietly explore.

Our stay in CW always includes drinks and snacks in the bar at the Williamsburg Inn.

Prior to the recent renovation the bar had a clubby feel.  The furniture was upholstered in the most buttery soft leather, the walls were dark, there was no wallpaper and the room was lined with beautiful architectural drawings.  Here it is post renovation.  Hmmmm.


The lobby of the Inn where they seem to have redistributed some of the old portraits and art work.
Thanks for sticking with me.  It was definitely a long post.  Y'all really need to come visit colonial Williamsburg Virginia.  Any questions?

XOXO
Yancey

Thursday, September 14, 2017

Zero to Hero - Old Hollow Core Door Makeover

Before                               After
We were orignially going to replace all the ugly hollow core doors in the house, but we decided to save money and do an extreme makeover instead, creating beautiful faux captured panel doors.

The plan was to fashion panels out of moulding, top and bottom to keep it simple, and paint the doors gloss black with good Benjamin Moore paint, and add Baldwin Brass hardware, including hinges. It turned out perfectly, and was good recycling. I hated the idea of all those doors going to the landfill!

Back of door - also a mess! Our girls are artists, and this Studio door shows it. We ended up having little fingerprints all over the house, but this door got the worst of it.

 The Project Begins...

First remove the old hardware. The hardware was ugly and paint covered. Upscale hardware will be the jewelry of this door, and will add some sparkle and really make a big difference!


Next we are going to mark the locations for our woodwork to create the faux panel effect:

I used a combination square set at 4" and marked around all the door edges, sliding it and marking it with a Sharpie as it moved, but you can mark your 4" with a ruler or measuring tape and connect the dots with a yardstick if you like.

 I suggest you use a pencil and not a Sharpie (my mistake) for marking unless you paint the door black, otherwise the Sharpie will bleed through your paint over time. Lesson learned! Once it bleeds through, it's very challenging to cover it up! It just bleeds through the second and third coats until you get ticked off and you hit it with some Kilz primer, and even then... Fortunately, we had always planned for these doors to be black, for a luxe effect.



If your door is still hung on the frame like mine, you will need to use a tape measure to mark 4" from the right and bottom sides of the door, and connect the dots with a ruler. 


To mark where the middle moulding will go, center the tape measure with the #2 in the center of the doorknob opening, and mark 2" up and down from there on the pencil line to create a 4" center rail. If you are a little off, no big deal, nobody will notice. 



Measure the middle woodwork marks you just made, and transfer those marks to the right side of the door. 

Connect the dots left and right to show the middle woodwork locations. The lines should be 4" apart.

 
The finished woodwork markings should look something like this. The moulding will  fit inside these frames, so the lines indicate the outer edge of the woodwork we will tack onto the door.







Measure your lines. The shorter horizontal pieces will be the same length top and bottom, the vertical pieces will be different lengths top and bottom. I made a quick diagram of the measurements so I could cut the molding correctly, showing the 45 degree angles of the cuts. 


Using your combination square, mark the location and angle of the cut you want to make, and check it against your diagram to get the cut right. Measure off and mark the length you need, in this case 22" from sharp tip to tip (outside thicker dimension). We want the pointed ends of the cut molding to fit just withing the boxes we marked on the door. For non-woodworkers out there, the old saw is "measure twice, cut once" so you don't waste material.


You can make your 45 degree cuts with a cheap mitre box and saw like this, or with a professional chop saw if you have one. I didnt have a chop saw at the time. You can also use a finishing saw and cut without a mitre box, but it is more difficult to get the cuts to fit together snuggly, which is key to making this project look great. Note that the molding I've used is thicker on the outside edge (at the top of the picture), and tapered to thin out on the inside edge to create the faux captured panel look. 


The finished woodwork, lined up like soldiers, and ready to tack onto the door. 








I used a silicone adhesive loaded into my caulk gun to apply in a zigszag pattern to the back of my molding, and pressed this snugly against the inside edge of the box line on the door. You can also use liquid nails or some other fast acting adhesive. The adhesive will hold the molding in place so we can tack the molding on with finishing nails later. 


Fitting the woodwork in place, and tacking it on with small finishing nails. You should fit all the pieces of the top box panel together prior to nailing, so you can reposition pieces for a tight fit. The adhesive I used gave me plenty of time to reposition, which is easily done. Repeat this process for the bottom panel box. 

The nails should be set into the wood with a nail setter once the glue has dried so they don't show, prior to painting. Note the moulding is positioned inside the box with the mitre cuts facing inward.



I found the little molding buggers were shifting a bit as I positioned them, prior to tacking them in place, so I used electrical tape to help with the hold until the glue set. The glue together with the nails should create a good strong hold.

Once the glue sets, and the moulding has been nailed, if there are any small gaps at the mitre or between the door and moulding, you can use the silicone caulk or other caulk to fill the gaps, and wipe away the excess with a finger prior to painting.


Once the glue set, the door was painted with Benjamin Moore Impervex High-Gloss Enamel latex, Black N30980 from the shelf (not custom mixed). I painted along the grain of the wood (pic above right), had the door been a wood door and not hollow core, to complete the illusion of a solid wood door. I covered the hinges with blue painter's tape for a clean paint job. When the paint was dry, I installed the new Baldwin Brass hardware.


 The finished door. The illusion is complete. 

A closer look at the solid brass hardware and the moulding. The jewelry helps make these doors shine! 

One thing I learned from 20 years in the furniture industry, a bit of the really good stuff, like Baldwin Brass knobs, really elevates the entire room, despite the rather humble pedigree of these doors! 

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